Just as we were all recovering from our long Fourth of July weekend here in the States, Audemars Piguet lit off fireworks from Le Brassus, Switzerland, dropping a whole mess of watches in its Women Novelties collection - but don’t call them women’s timepieces. The releases are plenty, in all manner of sizes and materials, so let’s cut the small talk and have a look. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 34mm in Black Ceramic I think it best to start with the heavy-hitter. When news dropped of these releases, my eyes were immediately drawn to this watch. Black ceramic is certainly all the rage right now (here’s looking at you Tudor) so this release is very on-trend.
What we have is the traditional Royal Oak with its octagonal bezel, black “Grande Tapisserie” dial, and iconic bracelet, only it’s within ceramic. But that’s nothing new - AP has been hard at work in the hard game for some time now. You might remember the RO Perpetual Calendar released a few years back in full ceramic with a ceramic bracelet which Ben Clymer dubbed “the hottest watch of SIHH 2017. ” It’s the 34mm sizing that really makes this release interesting. We’ve heard this time and time again -- ceramic is a notoriously difficult material, making it hard to fashion watch cases in smaller sizes. And yet, AP has managed to make it happen.
I would be interested to see how the all-black-everything aesthetic wears in the 34mm sizing. Blacked-out watches generally wear smaller than their diameter would suggest. If this was a 37mm watch : it might very well be the view of the Summer - nay the year. However let’s not let that stop us from enjoying this one for awhile. Audemars Piguet Regal Oak Double Balance Wheel Open Worked Rainbow Daytona, meet the latest rainbow ROs. Instead of releasing one enjoy into this collection, AP went ahead and dropped three rapid three different precious metal configurations of yellow, pink, as well as white gold, each with rainbow diamond bezels. There are two sizes presented in this launch: 41mm and also 37mm.
AP is calling this a new rainbow viser. It’s set with 12 different types of multi-colored gemstones: Ruby, tsavorite, emerald, topaz, tanzanite, amethyst, and a host associated with different-colored sapphires. In either size, the case and band are introduced in Frosted Gold. According to AP, this is achieved through a process where “tiny indentations are created on the gold surface with a diamond-tipped tool, giving a sparkle effect similar to that of precious stones, like ‘diamond dust. '” The Liquid Gold finish debuted inside 2016 with the 40th Anniversary Audemars Piguet Ladies Noble Oak.
The dial gives way to the open-worked, in-house Calibre 3132, with its double balance wheel mechanism. You can actually view this particular from the front or back of the watch. That double balance mechanism, of course , also debuted in 2016 with the ref. 15407 (another openwork piece). If Rolex’s success with rainbow models is any indication, I think these will be a massive hit. Both 37mm and 41mm represent sweet-spot sizes for a lot of people. This may be listed as a women’s novelty but it wouldn’t shock me to see a lot of men rocking these. Audemars Piguet Supérieur Oak Frosted Gold 34mm Here we have more Liquid Gold instructions only more icy. This new Royal Maple Frosted Gold model is being released in a 34mm sizing, just like the fine ceramic model.
Along with the case, the actual dial may be the star here, presented throughout AP’s newly introduced light blue PVD-coated switch complete with the classic “Grande Tapisserie” pattern. It is powered by the self-winding Calibre 5800, featuring 50 hours of power reserve.
I truly believe that 34mm is a very wearable size for both men and women today. Issue release floats your boat, go for it. Audemars Piguet Suprême Oak Self-Winding Chronograph 38mm in Pink Gold While rainbow gems are all the particular rage, don’t sleep on this one aid a 38mm Royal Pine Chrono, with pink gold, with purple dial along with a bezel arranged with 32 baguette-cut amethysts (that’s a lot of amethysts).
The actual dial here is something altogether new with regard to AP. It may be being called a chameleon call because of its new color treatment that consists of applying multiple layers regarding purple PVD to the face surface. As a result, what looks to be a standard purple watch dial has tones ranging from pink to magenta, and even some shades of blue, depending on the angle of the see in the light. It’s worth mentioning that the 38mm RO chrono still uses typically the Frederic Piguet caliber 1185, although the caliber 4401 from the Code 11. 59 selection has recently been introduced in a Royal Walnut chrono, as well, albeit within a larger 41mm model instant the new ref. 26239.
I might love to check this one out in the metal, if regarding no other reason than to hold this chameleon dial into the sun and watch its colors change tutorial also to see the many … many amethysts.